Resources-CWA Routesetting Guide

Pdf Summary

The Climbing Wall Association’s 2023 Routesetting Guide is a professional reference for managing routesetting in indoor climbing facilities. Its purpose is to promote safe, effective, and adaptable routesetting practices, while emphasizing that it is not a rigid rulebook and cannot guarantee safety or business success. The guide is aimed at experienced climbing-industry professionals and includes strong disclaimers about climbing’s inherent risks and the need for judgment.<br /><br />The document defines routesetting as a dynamic craft combining athleticism, problem-solving, design, and movement knowledge. It outlines common roles in a routesetting department, from trainee and apprentice to routesetter, assistant head routesetter, head routesetter, and director of routesetting. It also explains how routesetting should be managed as a program: recruiting and training staff, coordinating with other gym departments, supporting member progression, and building inclusive teams.<br /><br />Major operational topics include storage and organization of holds, hardware, and gear; hold-cleaning methods; inspection and documentation systems; resetting schedules; route tracking; and wall maintenance. The guide stresses that routes are effectively a product and should be functional, compelling, appropriate for the intended user group, and assessed for risk. It discusses grading systems, route marking, forerunning, and how to evaluate climbs based on movement, quality, variety, and safety.<br /><br />A large portion focuses on movement: creating variety, supporting progression, experimenting with trends, and using clinics, challenges, and competitions to deepen setter skill. The final chapter covers risk mitigation for both workers and members, including PPE, work-at-height practices, hazard assessments, safe hold placement, and specific considerations for bouldering, rope, and auto-belay routes.<br /><br />Overall, the guide is a comprehensive framework for building a professional, member-focused, and risk-conscious routesetting operation.

Asset Subtitle

This Routesetting Guide’s purpose is to raise awareness of current practices for those operating recreational climbing facilities and those working as routesetters in these facilities.

Keywords

routesetting

climbing wall

indoor climbing

safety

risk mitigation

hold maintenance

route grading

movement design

staff training

climbing facilities